Posts Tagged ‘rural living’

One of my goals here is to convince all of you preppers and survivalists that it isn’t a good idea to remain in a heavy urban environment if you really want to survive the coming times. I have long said that we are on the threshold of a new age, and as we agonize over the nuclear threat in Japan, war in the Middle East, the coming struggles we are getting into in North Africa, skyrocketing food and fuel prices, dwindling financial resources on the state and federal level and the rise in the virtual world we seem to be moving into, I think you’ll agree with me.

History shows that those who have taken care of their assets, had land of their own, and possessed a diversity of skills have always risen above the failures around them and came out of tragedies in a better place than those who have not. Suburban communities can be made livable in spite of the hard times upon us, but will take more effort to achieve the desired results. The best plan is to relocate your family to a place where you can grow your own food, raise your own meat and breathe the fresh air of freedom.

But many haven’t a clue as to where to start planning for the development of a survival homestead or farmstead. In “Surviving the Times” I’ve shared some of the things we need to prepare for and how, and in my next book, “Survival Homesteading”, I’ll go into more in depth discussion on how, why and where to set up your ultimate survival home for the coming times.

For now, you’ll have to settle for some research material I’ve put together in these posts that can help you get started. This first one, which I’ve split into two posts, deals with farm layout and planning for the construction of needed outbuildings on a farm. You probably won’t be building or planning for a large scale farm as this piece refers to, but the concepts are the same. It’s set on a 160 acre plot of land, which few of us can afford today, but it’s a goal to work towards. I’d like to see an increase in the numbers of small farms in operation instead of the declines we have been experience these last few decades. Small farms, in sufficient numbers, can reverse the problem of food shortages and increasing prices we’ve been experiencing. But more importantly, with enough land, and utilizing heirloom quality seeds, you can grow your own sustainable food supply.

This first piece is from the Breeders Gazzette;

FARM BUILDINGS.

LOCATION AND GENERAL ARRANGEMENT.

The planning and construction of farm buildings should be done with regard to the surrounding outside features as much as to the interior arrangement and convenience of the rooms. It is a common error to see little forethought taken in the placing of the buildings, in their relation to one another or to the surrounding conditions; the total disregard of a fine outlook that might have been had from the windows that are most frequented; many errors in the proper way to approach the house from the highway, and many times the utter absence of any attempt at ornamentation in the way of tree planting—nothing save bare sides and sharp angles of buildings open to all winds, storms and sun heat, or the opposite extreme, burying the house in a dense shade of loneliness.

Now this should not be so. When the advantages and increased value of the property as a whole are considered it is at once apparent. Anyone can distinguish between a nice farm and a place where it would be a pleasure to live, and on the other hand one that is bare and uninviting. The cost is a matter of forethought on the part of the individual at the beginning in the planning of the work, and the actual material to be used in beautifying the grounds almost always can be had for the gathering. One may easily find the time to do the work when once he has tasted of the pleasures there are in surroundings that are made attractive with trees and plants arranged to make a landscape that is ever improving and changing in scene.

When a beginning is made toward embellishment of the home surroundings then there is a new birth given, the feeling of attachment that reflects back into pleasant and longing recollections of the happy lives passed there, and the far-reaching influence of cheerful home surroundings on the character and future life of the growing generation toward the good and high of ideal life is above any estimation, besides being a source of interest and everlasting joy and pleasure alike to the owner and to all who enter here.

Farming is not all corn. There are many fine farms that are only such from the fact that there is a quiet natural park like effect resting over the home place, and if favored with a fertile soil and kind climate how much more blest we could be if we would bring about us more of the natural beauties so abundant everywhere. This need not detract an instant from the economical operation of the farm, but if practically planned should add many fold thereto.

We can assume that the residence and other buildings are already placed, or that building is to be done at some future time. With respect to the all-important question of choosing the house site, the custom in the city seems to be the law without recourse in the country, in that the house must stand facing square, with the best rooms toward the public road. If a better exposure or a fine scene lies in another direction, reverse the order regardless of the highway. Again, houses are dropped in a hollow, carried to the top of a bare hill, or placed too near dusty roads or stables, making things more disagreeable than convenience would compensate. The house should not be put on a poor or waste piece of ground just to gain a little extra tillable land.

Personal preferences should of course be taken into consideration, but as a rule many desirable locations are ignored. Among the specific directions to apply in selecting the home site are good sanitary conditions. These demand air and quick drainage of water. All this is secured on a dryish soil, slightly elevated if possible and fairly open to admit a free circulation of air. Any protection against prevailing north and west winds in the winter season, such as hills, trees or any other natural objects in the track of regular storms, should be made use of, but cool and refreshing winds should not be hinder ed in their direction during the heated season.

The distance from the highway is hardly a matter of importance. If the best place is 400′ from the road it should be chosen over another less desirable, though 200′ nearer. Besides this an entrance approach of reasonable length, if properly laid out among a grove of trees, will add much to the dignity and bearing of the place. The relation of the house and barn should be such that they do not appear as a part of each other, and in driving to the house one is not led first through yards and past gaping barn doors. The barn should occupy a position so that the prevailing winds will carry the stable odors away from the house, and not toward it, as is often the case. The exact position and arrangement of the outbuildings and enclosures will be according to their use, and to be convenient should be few, compact, and not scattered over a wide area. Pens, sheds and stacks should not be conspicuous in a general view of the farm.

In country houses broad simple design is much to be preferred. All about a house of this order there is a quiet dignity and homelike restfulness that is in pleasing harmony with every rural landscape. The rooms should be few and large. The veranda is right if one steps up from the ground and at least 10′ wide, and a porte-cochere or carriage porch should be part of every country house, as it is surely a comfort when rainy or windy to drive up to the door under a roof.

Advertisements

Economic collapse and the ensuing hardship is just one of the many terrors we must be prepared for in the coming times. We are constantly bombarded with facts and figures suggesting that the end is near, but how do we get ready to survive these coming times? There are many ways, but history tells us that people who have land, and are able to use it to advantage in growing crops and livestock for sale, as well as for your own consumption have always fared best in past economic depressions. True, we hear of many stories of wheat farmers or potato farmers going belly up and abandoning their farms, leaving them destitute and homeless, but these are not the farmers I’m talking about. The farms I’m talking about are the ones with a well rounded plan of sustainability that can provide for many differing streams of income.

I’ve taken this piece from 1906 as a way to suggest what you may want to look for, and how to set up your property for use as just such a farm, should you feel compelled to steer your preparedness planning efforts in that direction. The suggestions given here are for farms that are not dependent upon the grid to operate, as electricity was a scarce commodity much of the US during this time period so it gives you a view of what to look for in considering life without being connected to the grid.

THE FARMSTEAD

By A.D. Wilson

Much can be done to lighten the labor, both out of doors and in, if the buildings, yards, lanes, garden, etc., of the farmstead are properly arranged. We realize that many farmsteads are already established and in many cases are not easily changed, but a good plan carefully worked out will be found helpful when new buildings are to be put up. If a plan is drawn up and decided upon the changes may be brought about gradually without added expense and with a great deal of personal satisfaction and added convenience.

Fig. 1. A plan of a 160-acre farm, with an 8-acre farmstead facing east. Note connection of cattle yard with large fields and of hog yards with small fields.

CONVENIENCE

In planning the farmstead, plenty of space should be included for yards, garden, orchard, drives, etc., without crowding, and the whole should be sheltered from the North and West at least, by a good windbreak. The stables, granaries, yards, lanes and well should be so arranged as to economize labor in caring for the live stock. Most farm animals must be fed from 500 to 1,000 times each year and a very slight waste of time at each feeding means a very great waste in a year or a lifetime. A plan intelligently worked out may save this waste.

WEALTH AND COMFORT

The farmstead is to be the home of the family and too much attention can hardly be given to making it attractive and interesting as well as healthful and comfortable. Trees should be so arranged as to protect from wind and storm and shut out undesirable views, and where practical, openings left so that pleasing or interesting things may be seen from the home. Good drainage is one of the essentials for a good farmstead. If the location is not well drained naturally, the ground should be filled in about the buildings so water cannot settle into them, and broad open runways should be provided to carry the water away. It is a useless waste of labor and patience to work about barns and yards that are fu’ of mud when it can usually be avoided by a little care.

LOCATION OF FARMSTEAD

It is advisable, other things being equal to locate the farmstead along one side of the farm rather than at one corner. If this is done, three sides of the farmstead join fields instead of only two sides, making it much easier to arrange hog and cattle yards so both classes of stock can be gotten to the fields by short lanes and still be kept separate. It may also bring the farmstead nearer to all the fields, so that time and trouble may be saved in getting to and from them.

There are many advocates of placing the farmstead near the center of the farm. The advantages of this system are, it economizes time in getting to and from fields because the fields are closer to the farmstead. Four sides of the farmstead are in connection with the fields, instead of only two or three as in the case when it is next to the road or at one corner. The disadvantages of having the farmstead in the center of the farm have to do mainly with the social side of the problem. It increases the isolation of farm life as teams or people are not so easily seen when passing and passers-by are not so likely to stop. It is less convenient for children to get to school and places the farm home farther from other farms and from market. It would seem that the slight economic advantage of having the farmstead in the center of the farm is overcome by the social disadvantages and that other things being equal it is more desirable to place the farmstead near the center on one side of the farm than actually in the center of the farm.

The following plans of farmsteads are offered not as models, but with the hope that they may prove suggestive. Plans are shown of four separate farmsteads, one of which faces east, another south, another west and the fourth one, north. Each shows how the farmstead connects with the fields. The same general plan for the farmstead is used in each case.

Fig 2 Eight-acre farmstead lacing east, l House, 2 well, 3 poultry house, 4 watering trough, 5 main barn, 6 machine shed, 7 hog house, 8 corn crib, 9 granary.

SIZE OF FARMSTEAD

Eight acres has been used in each case for the farmstead but this may be reduced or enlarged to suit, and still not alter the general plan of arrangement of the farmstead or of the fields. The fields must be considered in planning the farmstead so the hog yards will join fields into which it is desired to run hogs and cattle yards be convenient to the main fields. The grouping of the buildings will be found suggestive at least. The lay of the land will not always permit of such arrangement, in fact every farm presents its own problems, but there is usually a best way, and one is not likely to choose the best way without giving the subject considerable thought and study. A study of conditions as they exist with an ideal in view is almost sure to result in improvement.

FARMSTEAD NOT WASTE LAND

A generous space is left for a lawn which in busy seasons may be kept neatly clipped by turning in sheep or horses occasionally. This with the good sized paddock for horses gives to a place a broad, imposing effect which it cannot have if small and crowded. The space thus taken is by no means wasted, as it furnishes good and convenient pasture for calves, colts and horses. The orchard is protected by the windbreak and makes an excellent run for the poultry. The garden occupies space between the house and windbreak, a part of which will be wet and late in spring owing to the snow lodging there during the winter, but this is better than having snow drifts in the door yard.

ARRANGEMENT OF BUILDINGS

It will be observed that the buildings for sheltering stock are set in a row about in the middle of the farmstead and back of the house. This arrangement leaves room for yards for each class of stock without getting them in front of the house or between the house and barn. The poultry yard is to be in the orchard where the poultry will assist in controlling insect pests and it makes double use of the space with advantage to both the orchard and poultry. The orchard, garden and poultry are placed near the house, because the housekeeper often cares for the poultry and makes many more trips to the garden and poultry house than anyone else. It will very likely be necessary to confine the poultry to the orchard during the early part of the season to protect the garden.

Fig. 3. Plan of eight-acre farmstead facing south. Buildings numbered same as in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4. Plan of eight-acre farmstead facing north. Buildings are numbered same as in Fig. 2.

YARDS

Two good sized cattle yards are provided to keep cattle separate when desired, and one to be used to stack grain in at harvest, so straw will be threshed in the yards where it can most easily be converted into manure.

Hogs are placed at a considerable distance from the house to avoid the disagreeable odor liable to come from them. A good sized yard is provided within the farmstead and this connects directly with fields which are to be devoted to raising pasture and other crops to be eaten by the hogs.

THE MAIN BARN.

The main barn is as near the house as is desirable owing to odors and danger of fire. This facilitates doing the chores and caring for the stock in stormy weather. The granary and corn crib are located between the main barn and hog house thus getting the feed where it can be fed out conveniently. It is sometimes desirable to store a portion of the grain to be used for feed in the main barn, but usually all grain grown should be put in the granary where it can be cleaned and graded and the very best taken out for seed. This usually makes a granary separate from the barn desirable.

The course of history hasn’t changed much when it comes to our drinking water supplies. We either get it from standing water, such as a pond or cistern, or we get it from a hole in the ground. One thing that has changed is how we make that hole in the ground. Nowadays we usually hire a well drilling company to do the job, but sometimes the situation calls for an old fashioned hand dug well. One key factor in any well is protecting it from contamination, and hand dug wells are especially prone to problems if you do not take steps to prevent problems from occurring. There are many ways to do that today, from using corrugated culvert to precast concrete caissons to line the well. But to some extent you can also pour in place your own concrete well lining.

Here’s a piece from the old days that tells you one way to line your well;

CONCRETE LINING FOR THE WELL; By Henry Colin Campbell

One of the most necessary appointments of the farm is a well to furnish a supply of good, pure drinking water, and a well should be so located and lined that the water will be protected against all possibility of contamination from outside sources.

The old wooden well lining and cover not only permits particles of soil and vegetable matter to drop into the water but soon reaches a state of decay when it becomes a source of danger to life and to limb from contamination and possibility of accidents. The top covering becomes loose, boards are pushed into or dropped down the well and the opening is a serious menace to farm animals and children about the place.

A concrete well lining and platform will overcome and for all time prevent these dangers. The concrete well lining should extend down into the well from 6 to 8 feet or sufficient depth to prevent burrowing of animals and seepage through the upper layers of soil.

In localities where an underground water stratum of undesirable quality is found at greater depth than this, the lining should be extended down far enough to exclude such water. In lining a well with concrete first remove the top cover as well as the old lining down to the desired depth. At that depth a platform must be built to form a stage on which to work. This platform may rest on the old lining or else be supported against the soil within the well. With this platform in place and all of the old lining thoroughly removed, forms for the new lining may be built. These should consist of 1 by 4 inch strips beveled at the edge to permit their being placed around in a circle with tight joints facing the concrete.

One of the accompanying illustrations shows this in the sectional plan of forms. These boards should be braced by 2 by 4’s at sufficient intervals to insure that they will not bulge or give way under the pressure of the fresh concrete. These forms are 4 feet long as shown in the sketch of the vertical section and are so bolted together that they are easily collapsible when necessary to take them down. As a rule only interior forms will be needed if they are braced and blocked sufficient distance from the earth wall when concreting. After the form section has been filled with concrete the forms should be left in place until the concrete has thoroughly hardened. Then they may be removed and a support or platform built for casting the concrete cover slab or if this is not too large to be handled in place by three or four men, it may be cast separately in a form made for that purpose and when it is hardened be moved to its position over the well curb.

A platform not less than 4 inches thick and reinforced with 1/4 inch round rods 8 or 10 inches center to center should be made. An opening must be provided for inserting the pump and another one to serve as a manhole which may be necessary if the well has to be cleaned out at some time.

A tight fitting concrete cover should be made for this manhole, provision being made for it when the cover slab or platform is cast. The edges of the manhole opening should be beveled and the cover for the manhole opening correspondingly beveled to fit into this opening.

Plan of concrete pavement on ground around well lining or curb.

Concrete for a well lining platform should be mixed not leaner than 1:2:4 although a 1:2:3 mixture is preferable. The pebbles or broken stones used should not exceed 1 inch in largest dimension.

This post is a section from Home Waterworks, by Carleton J. Lynde, ©1912. In keeping with the simple is better historic theme of creating a survival homestead, the hydraulic ram pumps are probably the best bet anywhere, unless you have a gravity fed spring water supply line. Low maintenance equipment with a high reliability factor is what you want to see on your homestead for years of productivity. Totally non electric, the ram pump is not susceptible to the fear of electromagnetic disruption, and requires no fuel besides water, so you are not held to the whims and availability of the energy market. It’s truly a deal that cannot be beaten by anyone.

Warning- just because you find a homestead away from town, it doesn’t automatically give you clean potable water. Have your water tested, or buy a kit and test it your self for safety’s sake. Ram pumps will move your water, but they won’t make it safe to drink. We’ll get into filtration and safe water in another installment.

THE HYDRAULIC RAM

Every foot-pound of work obtained from running water and from wind is clear gain. When coal, wood or oil is burned to drive an engine the work is done, but the fuel is gone forever. The work done is a gain, but against this must be placed so much fuel which cannot be used again. The work done by running water and by wind, however, is all gain, since the work done is a gain and the energy used would otherwise be wasted.

The hydraulic ram (Fig. 73) is one method of utilizing the energy of running water to pump water from a spring or brook into an elevated tank or into a pneumatic tank. It can be used where the running water has a fall of at least eighteen inches, although a fall of from three to ten feet gives better service. It will lift water from six to thirty feet for every foot of fall, according to the size and style of the ram; for example, if the fall from the brook to the ram is three feet, the ram will lift water from eighteen to ninety feet according to the size and style of ram.

How the ram works.

The operation of the ram (Fig. 74) is as follows. The water from the brook or spring flows down the drive pipe G and out at the working valve F, as shown in Fig. 74. The rate of flow of the water rapidly increases and when it reaches a certain velocity the valve F is suddenly closed by the force of the water. The momentum of the water in the drive pipe forces up the valve E and drives part of the water into the air chamber. The air in the chamber is compressed and thus exerts a back pressure on the water, which brings it to rest and starts it moving back up the drive pipe. This reaction or backward movement of the water closes the valve E and allows the valve F to open of its own weight. The water starts flowing down the drive pipe again, the valve F closes, and more water is forced into the air chamber, etc. This operation is repeated from twenty to two hundred times a minute according to the ratio of the fall to the height the water is pumped. The compressed air in the chamber forces water through the discharge pipe to the elevated tank, and from there the water flows to the house and stables by gravity.

At the base of the ram, just to the right of the flange of the drive pipe, is shown a small air valve C, called a sniffling valve. It serves to keep up the supply of air in the air chamber. Air is absorbed by water, and in time all the air in the chamber would be absorbed, and the chamber would become water-logged, if a fresh supply were not admitted. The sniffling valve admits this fresh supply of air as follows: on the reaction or backward movement of the water a partial vacuum is created in the base of the ram B, and as a result, the pressure of the atmosphere forces a little air in through the sniffling valve; on the next forward rush of water, this air is carried into the air chamber.

In general the ram uses the energy of running water to force part of it to a higher level. If there were no loss of energy from friction in the pipes and valves, the fraction of the water raised would be the ratio of the fall to the lift; for example, if the fall were three feet and the lift thirty feet, three-thirtieths or one-tenth of the water would be lifted. There is loss of energy in friction, however, and only about one fourteenth of the water is lifted when the ratio is one to ten; if the ratio is one to five, only one-seventh is lifted and similarly for other ratios, the amount lifted being always somewhat smaller than the theoretical amount.

In Fig. 75 is shown a sectional view of the Niagara hydraulic engine, a very efficient ram. The water enters through the drive pipe A and flows out through the working valve 13. At a certain velocity the force of the water closes the valve 13 and the momentum of the water in the drive pipe drives a part of the water into the air chamber G.

Fig. 75. Sectional view of Niagara hydraulic engine.

The compressed air in this chamber stops the rush of water and starts the reaction; this closes the valve E and allows the valve 13 to open again; also on the reaction a little air is forced in through the sniffling valve F by the pressure of the atmosphere. The compressed air in G keeps a steady flow of water moving through the discharge pipe C. The upper drawing gives a better view of the sniffling valve.

The rate of flow of water is regulated by the set nuts H at the top of the stem of the working valve. If more water is wanted, the nuts are unscrewed so that the valve has a longer motion and works more slowly. The water in the drive pipe then acquires a greater velocity before the valve closes, and therefore it has a greater momentum. As a result, more water is forced into the air chamber at each ramming motion; the air is compressed to a smaller volume, and therefore exerts a greater force and drives more water up through the delivery pipe.

If less water is wanted, the nuts are screwed down so that the valve works more rapidly on a shorter motion. The valve closes when the velocity of the water in the drive pipe is small; therefore the momentum of the water is small and less water is forced into the air chamber. The air in the chamber is not compressed so much and therefore a smaller quantity of water is forced through the discharge pipe in the same time.

The double acting ram.

Rams are made to force water from a spring into an elevated tank by means of the power of a neighboring river or brook, the water of which may not be fit to drink.

Fig. 76. Double-acting ram.

Fig. 76 is a sectional cut of the Niagara double-acting hydraulic engine. It is the same as the single-acting ram except that a supply pipe S from the spring is arranged to deliver water just below the valve E. The action of the ram is also the same as that of the single-acting ram, except that on the reaction the water enters the ram from the spring andfills the base T. On the next ramming motion of the water from the brook, the spring water is forced into the air chamber and out through the delivery pipe C. The ram is so adjusted that there is an excess of spring water and some of it flows out through the working valve D. This is brought about by the stand pipe on the pipe from the spring. It is made high enough to give a rapid flow of- spring water on the reaction. This excess of spring water prevents the river water from entering the air chamber and delivery pipe. The check valve on the springwater pipe prevents the spring water from being driven back up the pipe by the ramming motion of the water in the drive pipe.


Fig. 77. A standard ram.

The equipment.

The drive pipe is made as straight as possible, to allow the water a free flow. Where a bend must be made, as at the point it enters the ram, the whole pipe is bent in a long curve. The length of the drive pipe is important, and the manufacturers prefer to give information on this point for each installation. For the standard ram, however, the length is usually the same length as the lift. The end of the drive pipe in the spring or brook is protected by a strainer to keep out anything which might obstruct the valves. The area of waterway in the strainer should be two and one-half times the area of the pipe.

The ram is usually placed in a pit from which a large drain carries the excess water to a lower level. If the pipes are laid underground and the ram is covered in winter, there is no trouble from frost, particularly when the ram is allowed to run continuously. The delivery pipe is laid with as few bends as possible to avoid friction, but this is not as important in the delivery pipe as in the case of the drive pipe. The elevated tank should be provided with a well arranged overflow pipe, as the ram keeps it full to overflowing the greater part of the time.

A satisfactory engine.

Next to a natural gravity supply, the ram is the cheapest and most satisfactory means of obtaining running water. When once adjusted, it works away day and night, week in and week out, without attention, and after the first cost, which is not great, the only expense is for valves. These must be renewed every year or two according to the service.

In purchasing water-supply materials of any kind, it is well to remember that a cheap outfit is not necessarily an inexpensive one. It is better to pay a little more for a first-class outfit that will last a lifetime.

My advice to those of you who dwell in the truly urban areas of this nation has always been to get yourself gone, ASAP! Yesterday isn’t soon enough. I know there are large numbers of people who plan on trying to survive what is to come in these urban centers, and there have been several TV shows and movies that show us how simple it will be to take control of a large population center and make a go of it. Unfortunately, this is make-believe. It’s all made up by a scriptwriter and producer, brought to life by a director.

There are many facets of life in the city that are not discussed on these shows, and by not addressing these issues you are merely adding new dangers that you really should not have to be dealing with in an end time’s survival scenario. The city’s infrastructure is a huge burden, and with no one to foot the bill, how do you propose to keep the infrastructure in shape? Roadways will crumble if not maintained, especially under the stress of repeated earthquakes. Who will take care of the roadways? The infrastructure under the streets will also decay and collapse, so if you think simply tooling around in a four wheel drive truck will work, think again. Water and sewer pipes will burst, and any remaining liquids in them will pour forth under these streets undermining the pavement and creating sinkholes that will swallow many vehicles whole. You’ll have a harder and harder time of getting around with a vehicle, and eventually you won’t be able to travel anywhere without great difficulty.

Where do you intend to get your water from? The public water supply will cease to function without power to force the water through the system. Chemicals needed to make safe water for drinking will not be available as there will be no supply houses to obtain them from. And even if there are supply houses that may remain open, who will manufacture these chemicals? Who will test the supply to make sure it remains safe to drink? Then there is the delivery system itself. Sometimes the source of your water supply can be miles away from the city requiring huge outlays of manpower and cash to maintain the mainline piping, sometimes referred to as aqueducts. And don’t forget the hundreds of miles of local delivery piping that lay just under the surface of your streets. Failure to keep these systems safe and secure could lead to contamination of your water supply, not to mention the waste incurred by not repairing the leaks that will occur.

How about electrical power? Where is that going to come from? Very few communities can boast of having their own power generation capabilities, and those that do have them, particularly those with hydro-power will fare better than others. But if we fail because of an EMP or similar event the grid will be useless for distributing power, and according to some analysts it could take a decade or more to get the grid up and running again. Your choices are few in this matter. Fuel will become available in decreasing quantities and you will have to resort to pumping out storage tanks if you wish to run portable generators. Some people seem to believe that they will be able to rely on natural gas, and that too is a fallacy in a widespread breakdown. The natural gas wells need to have someone keep them running, as well as the compressors installed at intervals along the pipelines to keep the gas up to pressure. How do you intend to do that from your secure little enclave of urban survivalists?

There are many more issues that we fail to adequately address in our planning that can cause complete failure to what we want to envision our end time world to look like. Sanitation, communication, transportation, food sources and many more areas need to be fully investigated before we come to a complete understanding of what we have to look forward to in the coming times. Unfortunately, many of us insist that the picture we see is the correct picture, and many times the picture we see will be so distorted by our own pride that we could end up getting people hurt, or worse, killed for no good reason. We like to believe that we can shelter and survive in our snug little city type dwellings, but this is a false dream. The odds of winning a survival scenario in such a setting are so heavily weighed against success that it isn’t worth the effort.

Leave the major population centers for the warlords and gangs that will rise up after the fall of law and order. Ignorance will prevail by brute force and eventually their numbers will be reduced through their own stupidity. True, they will migrate to the countryside and rural communities to forage for that which they are to ignorant to obtain on their own knowledge, but if you have followed my advice and set up small communities of like minded people you will be able to withstand their assaults, provided they can even find you. And if you have followed my advice, they won’t

The primary aspects of survival can be found as what I call the SaWaFo pyramid. Safety, water, and food are the three pinnacle points of need for survival. Water is of course the most vital, but without these three you will not survive long term, no matter what the situation is. Safety, water, and food, are your primary needs, and not necessarily in that order. In a city you have reduced opportunity to find clean potable water, reduced opportunity to plant and grow necessary food and fuel crops, and at the same time an increased level of threat and reduction of a safe environment due to the risk of other people desiring what you have. At least in suburban areas you’ll have greater opportunity for water and food, even though the proximity to the greater population centers increases the potential risk.

Rural is the way to go, no matter how you want to look at the issue. If you find a locality with other like minded people you can band together for defensive purposes, and have plenty of room for crops, fuel plants and clean water from drilled wells.

~~~~~~

Surviving the Times is now available, and until September 30th you can save 10% on your “Surviving the Times” and “A Handy Disaster Preparedness Guide” by going to my book page and click “Buy” and then enter the saving coupon code word FOUND at the checkout stage. Click on the title below to go to my bookstore and a secure ordering site.

Surviving The Times

Print: $24.95 Download: $12.00

Surviving the Times takes you through the steps to make your own preparedness planning binder. You’ll learn how to gauge the level of various threats as they relate to your preparedness planning by using the three P’s of preparedness, the SaWaFo pyramid and more.

A Handy Disaster Preparedness Guide

Print: $14.95 Download: $10.00

A compilation of tips and how to’s on developing an emergency preparedness plan, and how to get ready for natural and man-made disasters. Also includes a comprehensive listing of state and federal agencies to contact for more help and assistance in dealing with emergency planning and dealing with the aftermath of a disaster.